Intimates market expands its horizons
Rather than two or three influences driving the key trends at Interfilière Paris, a whole range of well-established currents illustrate the diversification of the intimates market: young, classic, vintage, romantic and folk styles intermingle with streetwear, ethnic, sporty and natural styles. “All these currents are perfectly capable of making their mark and co-existing together because it’s not the go-to trend but the product that matters these days. This return to real products is something we’ve had our eye on for a while and it has definitely taken shape now. Young people aren’t looking for the latest fashion “thing” any more. What they want is a well-made product, beautifully crafted in attractive materials,” explained Jos Berry, Director of the Concepts Paris trend consultancy, after the show.
Hybridizing different fashion currents brings a breath of fresh air to the intimates, homewear and activewear market. More creative than ever, collections presented by Interfilière exhibitors featured a number of welcome surprises. They provided a showcase for bold and on-point research, renewed and responsible fabrics, sophisticated but well-dosed effects. “While the influence of young brands is visible in graphic designs, we can also see the impact of the Internet, where visual effects are very important,” explains Jos Berry.
The Italians distinguished themselves once again with their exceptional creative flair, particularly lace-makers such as Siva and Iluna. The creativity of embroidery-specialists couldn’t fail to attract the eye, whether Swiss embroiderers from St Gallen, French embroiderers such as Potencier, Turkish companies like Karen Brode or the Asian embroiderer Xin Fei Lin. Innovation is dominating fabrics, particularly fabrics made from natural fibres, which were one of the show’s key highlights. Here’s a rundown of the season’s ten most important takeaways:
Recycled lace: vintage and high-stretch, we love how light they are. A fresh new direction for recycled fibres which are often thick and heavy. Here, they take advantage of the exceptional craftsmanship of lace-makers.
Technical lace: “engineered” laces are gaining ground with a very modern feel, like those by Noyon Lanka with varying modulus in distinct zones.
Artistic embroidery: we’re loving the “hand-made” craft inspiration. Small and delicate Laura Ashley-style florals were very successful, as well as large-scale, light but generous flowers. Without forgetting the Alpine folk style, popular in St Gallen and featured against black backgrounds.
Gucci-style embroidery: unpredictable and surprising, but very striking. Unlikely styles come together to optimal effect.
Natural knits: in cotton, cotton blends (Sanko, Arula, Willy Hermann) and wool (Feinjersey), as well as linen, hemp (Innova) and silk (Pongees, Les Tissages Perrin), these are making a much-awaited return to the homewear and intimates market.
Anna Llop (Nextil Group)
Surface effects: surprising and remarkable, yarn-based effects are at once refined and substantial against ultralight bases.
Xin Fei Lin Textile
Free-cut edges: very popular in a number of collections, free-cut finishes offer genuine solutions for garment-makers.
New shapewear technology: new shaping fabrics feature knitted zones with different levels of support and stretch. Inspired by technologies developed for sports shoes, these new, flat knits are created in a 3D spirit.
Streetwear influence: as demonstrated by the fabrics themselves (latex, vinyl, etc.) and their multi-functional applications.
Organic effects: a full range of animal skins (zebra, snake, insect, giraffe, etc.) vie for attention in colourful prints, embroidered lace and laser-cut versions.